Archive for the ‘Drum Tips’ Category

Shorty's Latest Tip – Pulling Verticals

Thursday, January 15th, 2009
Tip:Don’t Be Greedy
Don’t get greedy when pulling a wet head. I say this because when  you do get greedy you will more then likely end up with the rings crooked. My goal when putting on a head is not to see how tight I can get it but to keep the rings level. You do this by going around a wet drum multiple times. The first 2-4 times I go around all I am doing is pulling the slack out without putting any pressure on the rings. It comes down in this process but not significantly.
Once the rope starts to get a little tight you can start working it down. When going around I try to leave the ring up a little high at the start by the loop (or tie off point if you use that method). That way when you come back around you try to have a slope down  on the ring in both directions from the starting point. When you pull it at this point it comes into level.  Remember that when you are pulling the ring down, it will move ahead of where you are pulling and behind where you are pulling so you have to think ahead and not pull down completely when it is high where you are pulling, go down several verticals and pull there and what you left high behind will come down.

Freezing Skins

Tuesday, September 30th, 2008

If you have soaked a skin or hide and do not have time to put it on the drum on the same day try freezing it. If a skin is left soaking too long it will deteriorate. You can soak the skin and put it in a plastic bag (freezer zipper bag) and then in the freezer until you are ready to use it. When ready to use it just re-soak it until it is defrosted. Voila soft skin ready for heading.

How to stabilize a crack in a drum shell

Tuesday, September 30th, 2008

To fix a crack in a wooden drum shell, you will need a drill with a 1/4″ bit, white or wood glue, sand paper, chisel, hammer, and a 1/4″ oak dowel. You will start from the rim or the bottom of the drum (depending on where the crack is).  Drill a hole at an angle and across the crack. Put the glue in the hole and on the dowel. Drive the dowel into the hole, cut the dowel off level with the drum, and smooth it with sandpaper or a chisel. You can color it with some stain or wood putty. The cracks usually do not show and do not affect the quality of the drum’s sound.  

June 2008 Tip – Wax the Rim

Sunday, June 15th, 2008

It’s a good idea to put a coat of wax on the rim of the drum before you apply a new head. The wax will protect the wood from the moisture left on the skin from soaking and will prevent the skins from sticking to the wood.

Another Drum Tip-Rim of the shell

Sunday, February 10th, 2008

I get a lot of questions about the rim of the drum, or bearing edge. This is an important part of the drum shell. Done incorrectly it can cause a vibration that could drive you crazy trying to figure out what it is, at least it drove me crazy the first time it happened to me. The vibration noise is due to a flat spot on the rim of the shell. What is happening is that the skin left bearing edge but then retouches again and starts to make the noise or vibration. There really is only on way to fix it, take the head off and fix the flat spot. When I first started out I was told the rim should look like a side view of your thumb. The finger nail side would be the inside of the drum and the skin (or palm side) would be the outside. That analogy really does work.

One more tip on the rim is if you want the plane of the top of the drum to be flat I have found the best way to get it that way is to glue sandpaper to a flat surface and rub the drum over that surface. It takes a little elbow grease but it is worth it in the long run. I actually use a belt sander to shape the rim but the first thing I will do is get the rim a little pointed so when I do flatten the top of the drum It sands easier. The more I flatten it, and wider the flat spot becomes, the harder it is to sand. I will reshape the rim again and make the top where I have been sanding pointed again until I finally get it flat. I use a piece of glass to gauge the flatness. You actually can tell when it is flat by looking at where you have been sanding and if the sandpaper touches all surfaces, then it has to be flat. If you do not have access to a flat surface and sandpaper, there is the old concrete driveway. I have turned a drum upside and rubbed it back and forth on my driveway, it works but you need to make sure the concrete is flat by using a straight edge in the place where you will rubbing the drum.

When finally finished sanding the surface, you have to get that rounded side view of your thumb look again on the rim. If you had to take the head off to fix the rim there is no need to re-soak the head, you can put the head back on dry, tighten the verticals, put your diamonds in and start playing.

Rope

Thursday, January 17th, 2008

Just thought I would continue the blog by adding another tip. I get asked a lot how much rope does it take to string a djembe. A lot of factors are involved. How many loops (that determines the verticals). How long the verticals are. I have my own formular, others have similar, they all work. I count the number of loops, each loop repersents two verticals. I measure the length of the vertical and add two inches to that length. I multiply the total length (the length plus the two inches) times double the number of loops. This will give you a total number of inches. Divide that number by 12 and it will give you the number of feet. The two inches that were added will give you the extra rope needed for the making the diamonds. It will also allow you to pre-lace the drum before putting the head on.

Drum Heading Tips

Saturday, January 12th, 2008

To know the how long you need to cut the rope for the two loops rings you measure the circumfrence of the rings. I wrap the rope around the outside of the top ring. I use 4.25 times the cirumfrence of the top ring and 5.5 times the cirumfrence for the bottom ring. This will give you extra rope on the rings using a two finger spacing for the loops. It is better to have one foot or more extra then to be half an inch short. When i say two finger spacing, that is for the top ring only, the bottom loops will be closer then two fingers. I always do the top ring first. Count the number of loops. As I tie the loops on the bottom ring I pay attention to how many loops I have as I go around the ring counting the number as I reach each quarter of the ring. If the top ring has 24 loops I should have 6 loops after reaching the first quarter of the ring and 12 loops at the halfway point. You can adjust your spacing accordingly.